Manufacturing methods

Greve custom-made shoes are manufactured according to a tradition that dates back to 1898. The basis of this tradition is an overwhelming desire to manufacture a shoe which not only fits perfectly, but is also hard wearing and delightful to the eye. And this can be achieved only by combining an extensive processing of hand crafting and a keen eye for detail, which is also why we train all our own craftsmen according to Greve tradition.

We at Greve apply three manufacturing methods: Goodyear, Blake and Moccasin.

Charles Goodyear invented a process of vulcanising rubber, while his son invented a machine with which to stitch the welt of shoes. The Goodyear welt method involves constructing the shoe from the insole up. The leather covers the foot itself (the upper) is fixed to the last using a leather strip, known as the welt, to which the undersole in turn is attached. The insole is also stitched to the underside of the welt. We then fill the cavity between the insole, the welt and the undersole with a ground cork mixture, which forms its own footbed.

The Blake method involves lasting the upper and cementing it to the underside of the insole. We then apply a midsole, which is stitched to both the insole and the lasted upper. The undersole is then cemented to the midsole. A second seam is then stitched through a groove in the undersole (bottoming), to the visual overlap created by leaving the edges of the midsole and undersole slightly broader than the upper.

Moccasin shoes are lasted from the bottom upwards. This implies that the upper extends completely beneath the shoe, and that we stitch it directly to the sole. The uppers of our moccasins are naturally also stitched entirely by hand.